Hey Posse. I do love a leather and up till my meeting of Le Galion Aesthete and Bottega Veneta EdP I thought Bernard Chant was the undisputed king of leather. Seeing that he did a few fragrances with much the same story but each a refined version of the original. Cabochard was the original in 1959. Recently I bought a brand new EdT tester in the renovated bottle. In one of my purges I sold all my Cabochard except a parfum and was reminiscing about layering the EdT over the extrait. The extrait is rich and gorgeous but the EdT adds so much throw and sizzle.
I can’t remember where I was talking about perfumes being a Kitchen Sinker, maybe Liz Taylor’s Diamonds and Emeralds a couple of weeks back, but here we have an archetypal one. Is there any note in the history of perfumery left out of this list? Asafoetida is from the very stinky root of a herb that is used in cooking for its strong onion flavour, thought to stop flatulence. Sadly not an upside of Cabochard.
Cabochard by Gres. 2019 reformulation.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes Sage Spices Tarragon Asafoetida Lemon Fruity Notes
Heart: Geranium Orris Root Rose Jasmine Ylang-Ylang
Base: Leather Oakmoss Tobacco Vetiver Patchouli Sandalwood Musk Amber Coconut
I love the spicy green opening. It’s not a pretty start. Dark, mysterious and portentous in the early few minutes, Cabochard opens up as a witches brew. It’s transportive. Every fairy tale seems to have a wood full of dark magic, this is what it would smell like.
Even as the flowers join the party Cabochard remains a bitter brew. Already, through the heart the leather, birch, oakmoss and vetiver speak of a dangerous, exciting course. Flowers are trodden into the darkness. This modern EdT is bloody excellent, I’m enjoying it immensely.
Interestingly, as we reach the dry down Cabochard 2019 takes a left turn towards comfort. The leather is now a very expensive, supple suede and is joined by amber, sandalwood and a dry tobacco note. The note list says coconut but I get none of it. This final stage stays linear but fades to nothing in the coming hours.
Tonight, after wearing my EdT most of the day, it was time to refresh. This time after a few blasts of EdT I added a couple of decent swipes of parfum to the backs of my wrists. OH BOY! Next level gorgeous. The parfum is infinitely more honeyed and sumptuous, none of this witchy shit, glamour all the way.
Did you ever or would you ever spritz some Cabochard?
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