Perfume

Diving into the Synthetic Alchemy of the April Collection

Imagine the sweet, floral smell of jasmine. Close your eyes and feel the soft white petals gliding between your fingers. Can you smell the beautiful headiness of this delicate white flower?

But wait! Did you get a hint of something funky? Something you can’t quite put your finger on. Is it flesh? Is it sex, like musky late-night sex? Or wait…cooked brussel spouts??

For some, jasmine is love. For others, jasmine can be overwhelming, naughty, maybe too naughty. What is that from you ask? Say hello to indole, that natural chemical compound found in jasmine.  

Now imagine a perfected jasmine, one that eliminates the potential to overwhelm the nose (indole) and gives you just enough sex to make it provocative but not slutty. Meet Hedione (aka  Methyl Dihydrojasmonate). Hedione was discovered in a lab by chemist Edouard Demole of Firmenich. Then in 1966, re-known perfumer Edmond Roudnitska used Hedione in the classic men’s fragrance Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior, a defining moment in the annals of perfumery. 

Hedione

For decades, synthetic molecules in perfumes were rarely discussed. They were bad, unnatural, the dirty side of perfumery. But in reality, they built modern perfumery and expanded the perfumer’s palette in ways we couldn’t imagine. They made the impossible, possible. 

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, told Elle magazine in 2016, “Historically, it’s been the application of something never used before or an overdose of an ingredient that has made a perfume stand the test of time, and in almost every case, like the famous aldehydes in Chanel No. 5, it was a synthetic material that did this.”

For the April Collection, Synthetic Alchemy, we wanted to showcase the power, the influence and the beauty that we find in the lab with synthetic fragrance molecules. Want to dive in a little more? Here’s a look at some of the synthetic molecules featured in the April Collection for Men and Women and what scents they are found in.

Women’s Collection | April 2019

 

Lumen_esce by Nomenclature 

Violettyne: Green, leafy floral, this fresh green note carries a cucumber-like undertone.

 

Efflor_esce by Nomenclature 

Paradisone: Intense jasmine-like floral, this is one of four aspects of Hedione (see above).

 

Iri_del by Nomenclature 

Iris Aldehyde:  A fresh floral note that lends a clean, breezy scent to fragrance.

 

Men’s Collection | April 2019

 

Citrus Ester by Aether 

Herbac: A woody, mint scent that calls to mind wet eucalyptus and cedar leaf.

Methyl Grapefruit: A fresh, slightly bitter citrus note reminiscent of the bright scent of grapefruit peel.

Firascone: A rose-forward scent, with hints of saffron.

Acetate: Earthy, almost metallic note.

Stemone: Green, fresh scent that recalls lily of the valley, fig leaves, grapefruit and a hint of tomato.

Vetiveryl: A powdery, woody note that smells like vetiver without the harsh, smoky tone.

Rubafurane: An interesting blend of rhubarb and green eucalyptus. Goes well with fruity and citrus notes.

Iso E Super: A woody floral note reminiscent of sandalwood and cedarwood. Said to enhance the wearer’s pheromones, attracting admirers.

 

Rose Alcane by Aether 

Exaltolide: A sweet, rich herbal musk that adds depth and heart to fragrance.

Rose Oxide: A lush rose scent, which can call to mind the scent of lychee or aromatic wines like Gewürztraminer.

Oxane: A fruity floral that recalls pineapple and passionfruit. Pairs well with citrus and exotic fruit notes.

Rhubofix: Depending on what it’s blended with, this multifaceted note can smell woody, spicy, floral and fruity.

Trimofix: Powerful woody amber that carries a smoky, tobacco nuance.

Tobacarol: A dusty amber scent with whiffs of tobacco and nutmeg.

 

Aetheroxyde by Aether 

Ethylacetate: A sweet, fruity smell that lends staying power to a perfume.

Adoxal: A fresh, marine scent that blends well with floral, fruity and woody notes. Sometimes described as smelling like fresh linen.

Calone: A marine note that has floral overtones and a melon undertone. Found in many “sea breeze”-type scents.

Ambroxan: One of the key synthetics responsible for the scent of sweet, earthy ambergris, often called: liquid gold.

Iso E Super: A woody floral note reminiscent of sandalwood and cedarwood. Said to enhance the wearer’s pheromones, attracting admirers.

Ysamber K: A woody, slightly fruity scent, similar to amber and vetiver that can elevate citrus notes in a fragrance.

Hedione: A fresh, green jasmine scent with a citrus kick.

Ambrettolide: Musky, powerful and warm, it shines through from start to finish of the drydown process.

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