Ormonde Jayne Evernia was composed by Geza Schoen for the Signature Collection withcreative direction of Linda Pilkington photos courtesy of Ormonde Jayne and Geza Schoen
Creative Director Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne is determined to embrace a heretofore missing category in the Ormonde Jayne perfume library with the introduction of her latest fragrant release in the Signature Collection, Evernia composed by Geza Schoen .
Evernia prunastri via wiki
Evernia prunastri is the Latin name for oakmoss – among my best loved aromatic materials, a lichen cherished for its inky mystery and ability to conjure depths of the forest floor, laden with its tones of moss, decaying leaves, bark, wood and fungus/mushroom. The IFRA has instituted several restrictions over the years due to claims of skin allergenicity; most perfumers seek out atranol-reduced/free absolutes and/or substitutes. However, one may view it, oakmoss is a staple in the perfumer’s palette: there may be a number of extant so-called chypres sans oakmoss available, but they don’t move me the way that the real deal does.
Ormonde Jayne Evernia photo via Ormonde Jayne
I found myself on tenterhooks when the announcement Ormonde Jayne Evernia was released – and even more so when a tester was recently sent me. At this writing it is not available in the U.S until January/February of 2022, but I highly recommend a sniff at the very least when the opportunity presents itself for sampling. It’s that beautiful, wearable and one of the finest perfumes I’ve smelt in 2021. I’m very excited about Evernia, and my hope is that you will feel similarly.
Phyllis and Demophoon Edward Burnes Jones 1870 via wiki
Ormonde Jayne Evernia is a marvel of blending, as so many Ormonde Jayne scents are: there’s a seamless quality which they possess, and Evernia is no exception. It opens with a marvelous piquancy which I attribute to inimitable bergamot (so versatile!) and nose-tickling pink pepper, coriander and cardamom. Cassis certainly contributes its complex fruity/animalic/tangy/winelike verdancy – a wonderful quirky absolute which makes florals sing (heavenly accompaniment to rose, as in Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’Eau) and lends green fragrances extra fascination. Evernia’s choice of florals encompasses several house favorites: lily of the valley, freesia, orris butter, jasmine, violet and Moroccan rose. Part of the magic you experience is this – in spite of its markedly sweet flowers, Evernia never skews syrupy. Blossoms are woven into a harmonious whole, embroidered throughout with threads of cardamom and the commodious depths of oakmoss.
Ormonde Jayne Evernia photo via Ormonde Jayne
A profoundly woody/musky base awaits; in the capable hands of the perfumer, it is consistently tenacious without smelling leaden, marrying the highly unexpected qualities of persistence + airiness. Evernia’s perfumed plinth is composed of heavy-hitters which are multifaceted and malleable: staples such as Cashmeran® (IFF) provide a velvety woody musk which complements florals; Iso-E Super® (IFF), a creamy, ambergris-like woody floralcy redolent of fine cedar; sandalwood and musk are accented with the sweet myrrh opoponax. The drydown is simply stunning, a masterpiece of refinement and subtlety which lingers indefinitely, a veil of scented secrecy and intrigue.
Ormonde Jayne Evernia plays nicely into my dryad fantasies. It feels fleet-footed, light of being and perhaps a touch talismanic as well; there’s something deliciously fey about it. I can’t imagine a season Evernia doesn’t suit: it insinuates its way into your good graces with sophisticated stealth. I’m thrilled to have it in my oakmoss arsenal. Well-played,
Ormonde Jayne. Notes: Sicilian bergamot, cassis absolute, cardamom, pink pepper, coriander seed, orris butter, lily of the valley, freesia, jasmine, violet, Moroccan rose absolute, oakmoss, Cashmeran® (IFF), sandalwood, musk, opoponax, Iso-E Super®
Tester generously provided by Ormonde Jayne – many thanks. I treasure it. As always, my nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
8ml of Ormonde Jayne Evernia photo by Michelyn
Thanks to the generosity of Ormonde Jayne London we have a draw for a 8 ml flacon of Evernia for one registered reader in the USA. EUROPERFUMES IS THE US DISTRIBUTOR SO PLEASE LOOK FOR IT IN JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022
photo by Ida©
If you are in the UK there is a 50 ml bottle of Evernia.
You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review of Ormonde Jayne Evernia, where you live, and if you have a favorite Ormonde Jayne fragrance. Draw closes October 3, 2021
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